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In part this is to do with Moroccan men’s misunderstanding of Western culture and sexual attitudes, and the fact that some think they can get away with taking liberties with tourists that no Moroccan woman would tolerate.

The obvious strategies for getting rid of unwanted attention are the same ones that you would use at home: appear confident and assured and you will avoid a lot of trouble.

Wearing “modest” clothes (long sleeves, long skirts, baggy rather than tight clothes) will give an impression of respectability.

Wearing a headscarf to cover your hair and ears will give this impression even more.

When invited to a home, you normally take your shoes off before entering the reception rooms – follow your host’s lead.

It is customary to take a gift: sweet pastries or tea and sugar are always acceptable, and you might even take meat (by arrangement – a chicken from the countryside for example, still alive of course) to a poorer home.

You’re expected to tip – among others – waiters in cafés (1dh per person) and restaurants (5dh or so in moderate places, 10–15 percent in upmarket places); museum and monument curators (3–5dh); (5dh); filling station attendants (3–5dh); and porters who load your baggage onto buses (5dh).

You’ll also see young people of both sexes hanging out together, though you can be sure that opportunities for premarital sex are kept to a minimum.

Even in traditional Moroccan societies, mountain Berber women, who do most of the hard work, play a much more open role in society, and rarely use a veil.


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