Intimidating sports music

“A lot of these kids, their parents weren’t in a band because of the migration to other states,” said Tenell Moore, the band director. Mary’s Academy, an all-female high school, and in 2013 won the Street Kings brass band competition.

“So we’re building new ‘bandheads,’ what we refer to them in New Orleans. Out in the Seventh Ward at a booming local spot called Bullet’s Sports Bar, with no other businesses in sight, the Pinettes played to a packed Friday night house that included the New Orleans funk legend Mac Rebennack, better known as Dr. “My friend said, ‘Come out and hang out with some sisters,’ and I couldn’t believe how many white people are here. (Event organizers had to take a marker and cross out “Kings” and write in “Queens.”) Natasha Harris, the saxophonist, told me that none of them are full-time musicians: “We all have families, we all have jobs, we’re college-educated women, but we do this because it’s our passion.” They often have to perform without their full roster because there aren’t enough women instrumentalists around to act as substitutes for members who can’t make certain gigs. Harris said, “is that middle school girls will come up and continue their passion, or that women will see us and realize it’s never too late.

The 52 Places Traveler Our new columnist — chosen (out of 13,000 applicants) to visit all of the spots on our 52 Places list — finds plenty to celebrate in New Orleans, including fierce pride and a spirit of forgiveness.

On my first trip to New Orleans, eight years ago, I bought a new pair of sneakers.

I experienced that pride a bit when I wrote something offhand on Twitter about how locals were ending conversations by telling me to “be safe,” and that I got the impression that no one walked around after dark.

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Claude Avenue, I met another group of women at a nonprofit called Dancing Grounds who are trying to spread the empowering message of Bloody Mary (Rawhide2010 — though the graphic S&M playing on the TV screens at all times probably isn’t for everyone).My view of the city is in no way a comprehensive one, but it was molded by my tastes (and by the Anne Rice-loving friend from Brooklyn who introduced me to the city). “It’s music, it’s fun, it’s food, it’s partying, it’s a parade all the time.” That feeling turns 300 this year, which marks the anniversary of when Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville founded the French Quarter.Roch food market, Latitude 29, for instance), but there are still boarded-up houses in many neighborhoods and a kind of lingering sadness about the hurricane’s most lasting impact, which was a loss of community.Almost every New Orleans native I met told me about friends and family who fled flooded homes and have yet to be able to return.Among residents’ other regular complaints are the roads, which often seem to be more pothole than concrete, and the water quality, which had much of the city on a “boil water” advisory (including for bathing) due to frozen pipes just days before I arrived.At the satirical Krewe du Vieux, the first major parade of Mardi Gras season, most floats were rebukes of the Sewerage & Water Board, whose failure to maintain drainage pumps resulted in damaging floods this summer.By the end of a week I had danced in the streets so much I’d worn holes through the bottoms of each of them, straight through to my socks.That, more than Mardi Gras or Jazz Fest or oak trees or gumbo, is my indelible image of the city: The only place in the world where I’ve had such a good time that the shoes melted right off my feet.I had to quit my job as staff writer at New York magazine, where I’ve worked since college; box up my entire apartment; and pack for a year on the road.I’m pretty sure I was crying when I found those sneakers, because I cried a lot that week. Amid the chaos, it was as if a welcoming committee from the very city where I was starting this adventure had arrived in my living room and handed me a Sazerac: “You got this, girl.”Tourists can get a bad rap among locals, but we have history with the places we go to and love, too.


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